Monday 01 June

Right. Where were we? Oh yes, Hiroshima. A tram took us to Hiroshima Port to catch this ferry.

We passed large dockyards at Kure.

Then through a narrow strait under the Ondo Long Bridges and out among smaller islands.

Matsuyama on Shikoku Island was our destination, home to another tram system and local trains as well.

Matsuyama has become famous for steam trains which ceased operation in 1931 when the local lines were electrified. However, they were mentioned in literature, most famously in Natsumi Soestki’s 1906 novel, Botchan, so interest continued and in 2001 a diesel powered replica was constructed which runs on the city’s tram lines occasionally. Actually there are three replicas scattered around. One is in a tiny museum in a Starbucks.

The ascent to Matsuyama Castle is by cablecar or chairlift. Just as well, there was no way I was climbing up there in the warm humid weather.

Tuesday 02 June

A typhoon warning interfered with our plans today, trains were cancelled on the coastal route to our next destination so a quick re-plan was required, which saw us on this oddly decorated train. Anpanman is a children’s character, apparently more well known in Japan than Hello Kitty.

Changing trains at Tadotsu we spotted this plinthed steam engine.

A less decorated train took us on to Kochi.

Here we explored the tram system, and hunkered down for the coming typhoon.

My hotel room overlooked the tram line.

Apart from getting wet, the typhoon didn’t cause us any problems. I was startled during dinner when mobile phones all around the restaurant made a lot of beeps. It is considered very bad manners to not have your phone on silent in a restaurant, so I was surprised that Japanese customers’ phones were making the noise. It turned out to be the emergency alert system, warning everyone of the approaching typhoon. (At least, I assume that’s what it was, my message was all in Japanese!)

Wednesday 03 June

The typhoon had passed without incident and the sun was shining in the morning.

I went for stroll in the pleasant garden by the hotel before heading out for the days activities.

It was only some weeks after I arrived home that I learned that the red bridge in this garden is the famous Harimayabashi, (Bashi means bridge) the setting of a legendary love story between a monk and a local woman immortalised in Japanese folk songs and films. So that’s why the tram stop outside our hotel has that name.

A short tram ride took us to the depot where we had arranged a visit.

As well as being the operational depot for Koch’s tram network they also have a collection of “pet” trams which they had moved out into the sunshine for us.

This oddly shaped one is from Oslo.

Portugal:

Next, a ride on the longest branch of the system, which includes this bridge.

… and ends at Ino.

Next destination was the Paper Museum at Ino. An interesting exposition of the the history of the local paper-making industry. This is the raw material.

I got the chance to make some paper, putting the frame into the pulped material, draining it and turning out the sheets.

They were then pressed and dried before I was allowed to take them home.

Here’s my output, back in the UK.

Next, Kochi Castle

Not as hard a climb as some of the previous ones I’ve seen, and with a very interesting museum inside. (We had to remove our shoes to be allowed in.)

The views from the top were good.

Another Asahi product.

Thursday 04 June

One final tram ride to the station where we caught a train to take us on a scenic run across the Island and then over a long bridge back to the main Island of Honshu, and on to Okayama.

Another tram system to explore.

The tram system attracts visitors with a special tram which may look familiar to some of you. It wasn’t out to play during our visit, we found it hidden in the depot at Shiroshita.

Like many Japanese tram systems, they have a mix of modern and older trams. This relatively new one had “Japanese” woodwork seats and tables inside.

Lunchtime beer was another new one for me, Ginga Kogen, a Hefe-weizen.

Okayama Korakuen is one of Japan’s Top Three Great Gardens, AI tells me. We went to have a look. Not the raked gravel and tiny trees I expected, but a beautiful park with manicured lawns, water features and temples. A great way to relax.

More beer in the evening, two different ones from Okayama Jimoto, and then a peach one from Doppo.

Friday 05 June

The first item on the agenda today was the Tsuyama Rail Educational Museum. We rode to Tsuyama on an old diesel unit.

At the museum we found a large roundhouse filled with an great collection of historic trains.

Back at Okayama I had time to stop at the Doppo Brewery’s counter in the station for a pint of their Schwartz.

Next, a Shinkansen took us to Shizuoka.

Time for a short ride on the local Shizuoka Railway, which has 600v overhead electrification.

After dinner, a visit to a bar called Twelve, where I enjoyed a superb “Gateway: Eternal”, a locally brewed barrel-aged imperial stout with coconut and banana. 11.5% and truly gorgeous!

Saturday 06 June

We started today with a short ride on a local train to Yoshiwara where we changed to the Gakunan Railway. This is a small local electric line, originally opened as a freight railway; freight operations have ceased. It is famous because every station offers a view of Mount Fuji.

A length of the line runs through a chemical plant giving it a real industrial feel.

All freight services ended in 2012 but they still have a collection of locos at Gakunan Fujioka for us to look at (and climb on).

In the station there was a nest of swallows (swifts, martins, who knows?) Someone more knowledgable than I advises they are Pacific Swallows – Thanks John.

What about the views of the famous mountain?

It was shrouded in cloud! It’s there somewhere.

Back at Shizuoka there was time for a little side mission a couple of stops away at Mochimune. I had enjoyed last night’s beer so much I went to visit the brewery tap. The actual brewery is over the road from this modern taproom where I enjoyed a hazy pale ale called Time Slip and then a tiny glass of another of their barrel-aged imperial stouts, “Silent Dissent” is 13.5%

Next, a Shinkansen ride to Tokyo.

Did I catch a glimpse of Fuji from the train?

This evening’s beer was in a small bar in the Chiba station complex where I enjoyed a rather good “Walnut Moon” stout from Citta Brewery.

Sunday 07 June

Two trains and a bus took us to Narita Dream Farm, a very popular agriculturally themed park.

What were we doing there? A sudden fascination with dairy cows? Of course not. In one corner of the site is RASS (Rasschijin Railway Society), home to many steam trains. We spent many hours riding and photographing their operations.

The finale of the visit was a triple-headed run.

Special thanks to all the RASS team for bringing out their locos for us and making us feel very welcome.

Back to Chiba, and a chance to ride the “danglebahn”. (Danglebahn is railway enthusiasts’ slang for a suspended monorail. The original example opened in Wupperthal, Germany, in 1901.)

This evening I skipped beer and went for sake instead. Sake is a drink made from rice. It is often called rice wine but in fact the brewing process is more like beer.

The sake came in small-ish glasses (about 100ml) and there was a little card with tasting notes for each one.

We were on an all-you-can-drink deal, so a quick trip to the chiller cabinet to pour oneself another. There were about thirty to choose from – The flavours are all subtly different.

More from Japan in Part Three