My first Japanese “train” was the Tokyo Monorail which runs from Haneda Airport into Tokyo. It is a very busy line, with enough customers to justify running fast services as well as all stations ones. At the halfway point of the line loops allow the express services to overtake.
It was interesting to see the track move as the points changed.
Next, on to the trams on the Toden Arakawa line, which is unusual in having a gauge of 4ft 6in. The history of 4ft6 gauge is rather strange, it was first used by a number of railways in Scotland, but they were all eventually converted to standard gauge. It was then used for the tram network in Tokyo, of which this is the last remaining line. Some other railways around Tokyo also use this gauge because they originally had inter-running with the tram system.
On this line we discovered something which we would find is common to many tram systems in Japan; each tram has different livery and decoration. The one we rode on had traditional Japanese woodwork on the interior.
Saturday 23 May
The first day as an organised group began with a metro run to Asakusa station in Tokyo for a ride on the Limited Express Ryomo on the Tobu line to Aioi:
(Japanese place names are fairly easy to pronounce as the Romanization is entirely phonetic. However, I have to confess that my brain struggled with Aioi, tripping over a word with four vowels and no consonants. I got there eventually!)
At Aioi we switched to the Watarse Keikoku Railway, a rural branch line, where we travelled on one of their their little diesel railcars through the scenery to Tsudo.
We were here to visit the Ashio Narrow Gauge Museum to see, and ride behind, their collection of rare industrial and mining locomotives.
Our hosts at the museum were very welcoming and friendly, and I think pleased to show their trains to very interested visitors.
We strolled up the line a little way to Ashio station where some old rolling stock is kept, and we were able to have a good look around here.
Back to Aioi and a chance to photograph passing trains before heading back to Tokyo.
Sunday 24 May
Today started with an hours ride on a local train to Kumagaya where we were in plenty of time for the highlight of the day, the steam hauled Paleo Express. The train arrived hauled by a rather fine antique electric loco (Don’t tell anyone, but I would have been quite happy to ride behind this instead of the steam loco.)
Now followed a two and a half hour run behind C58-363.
There is a famous bridge where most of our group, having decided not to ride the train, were poised to photograph us passing.
At Chichibu we paused for a photo stop. (And to let a normal service train overtake us.)
At Mitsumineguchi the loco was detached and turned ready for the return service.
For the return journey we used service trains to watch the Paleo Express passing.
To get back to Ueno we used the Limited Express Chichibu, a rather stylish train.
Our reserved seats were in the front carriage from where we could see forwards over the driver’s shoulder.
Monday 25 May
Time for our first ride on a Shinkansen, from Tokyo to Nagoya.
To be honest, it’s a boring way to travel, there’s much more of interest on a slow train! Such a local train took us to the docks at Kinjo-Futo.
Here we headed for the “SCMAGLEV and Railway Park”. I wasn’t sure what to expect here, having been told it was the third largest railway museum in Japan, but what I found was a very impressive museum with lots of interesting exhibits. If this one is third, I can’t wait for numbers one and two!
This electric loco came from the UK.
A steam-powered railcar:
Here’s one of the famous “Doctor Yellow” test trains used to inspect Shinkansen tracks, wires and signals. This example retired last year.
Next, back to Nagoya and then a short ride to Kuwana, a station which has tracks with three gauges. We headed for the rarer 762mm (2ft6in) Hokusei Line.
We took a ride up the line, finding an older unit for our return journey.
Tuesday 26 May
Today, a trip by train and coach to visit the Akazawa Forest Railway Museum. The Kiso Forest Railways were extensive and carried timber as well as passengers, but closed in 1975 when trucks took over the work. In 1985 a short section of the railway was rebuilt as a museum.
We had a good look around their workshop and museum.
Unfortunately they are not allowed to operate their American steam loco, built in 1929, because of the risk of causing fires.
We went for a pleasant scenic ride through the forest on their diesel powered train. The ticket was made of wood, of course.
Wednesday 27 May
The Toyota Commemorative Museum in Nagoya is a large museum celebrating the company and its founders. The Toyota company started one hundred years ago making textile machinery, and they still do that today. In 1933 they started making cars. The first part of the museum is a fascinating and well explained story of their textile products. We were particularly impressed by the clear explanation of the exhibits (in Japanese and English) and the staff keen to demonstrate many of the machines.
Exhibits go right up to the present day, this loom was made in 2023.
Moving on to the car-making part of the business, here’s a recreation of the wooden model used to make their first product, and the bodywork it produced.
The museum doesn’t just contain the cars, it also has examples of production equipment.
Next, on to Osaka for a ride on the “Nankai Limited Express Rapi:t”. This rather daft-looking train provides an expensive service to the airport. From the transport point of view it’s cheaper and only slightly slower to get a “normal” train, but this one is great fun to look at.
Thursday 28 May
Kyoto Railway Museum today. Wow!
Short train rides were on offer, powered by steam loco C56-160.
The workshops here had just finished refurbishing this loco, and it was on test. Testing consisted of thrashing it up and down the yard. Repeatedly!
What a wonderful museum. I’ve just shown a tiny fraction of the pictures I took.
Next, off to Hiroshima. Part way by Shinkansen before switching to “ordinary” trains for a more scenic route via Itozaki.
Regular readers of these pages my have noticed an apparent omission so far in this report. Yes, I haven’t mentioned any beer yet.
So, in Hiroshima I found a bar which according to Google offered craft beer. It didn’t really, being targetted at Gin and cocktails, but I did enjoy this Gargery Stout from Beerstyle21 in Tokyo. The glass is a peculiar shape with a round bottom, you have to put it in the supplied stand.
Friday 29 May
A fairly prompt start, this morning, in order to reach the Atomic Bomb Dome at 08:15. A moving memorial in an understated way, I thought.
The Peace Memorial Park includes a cenotaph, a Peace Flame and a pond.
I found the Peace Memorial Museum at the end of the park to be a very poignant and at times affecting experience. It was very busy (I’m told it always is.) with crowds of tourists and schoolchildren shuffling through the displays in respectful silence.
On to something more cheerful, albeit equally tourist-packed. A long tram ride (About an hour) carried us to Miyajima-guchi station from where a ferry took us on the short crossing to Miyajima Island.
The island is a tourist destination famous for the Itsukushima Shrine and its “floating” gate.
The island is populated by tame wild deer which roam the streets.
Away from the built up area the island is a pleasant place for a walk, although it was a bit hot today.
We joined the lengthy queues to ride two cable cars up the mountain.
I was a little miffed to discover that the rides only took us so far, and it was another 100m up to reach the summit, I decided it was too hot to climb that far! The views from where we reached were good.
Back at sea level, it was time to quench my thirst.
We headed back to Hiroshima by the quicker route, on a Sea-cat to Hiroshima Port.
From there it was a shorter tram ride back to the centre.
I finished the day with a pint of locally brewed Oyster Stout (Which contains Hiroshima oysters.) in a bar by the station.
Saturday 30 May
Another steam train today. The SL Yamaguchi is a regular steam operation between Shin Yamaguchi and Tsuwano, a distance of about 40 miles. First, we used a coach to take us to suitable photographic locations, starting at a photogenic paddy field.
On to a couple of other photo spots.
At Tsuwano we could watch the loco shunting and being turned and serviced before we headed back to Shin Yamaguchi on the train.
Beer? With my lunch I had a can of The Bitter-ist, and then on the steam train they had bottles of a Weizen from Yamaguchi Beer.
Sunday 31 May
Back to Hiroshima today, starting with a scenic coastal ride in one of these Class 115 EMUs which date from 1963, I think. (My Japanese railway stock book is entirely in Japanese so it’s hard to be sure!)
A last glimpse of the steam loco being prepared for today’s run.
On this run I took a couple of random pictures out of the window to give an idea of what Japan looks like.
Hiroshima has a lot of trams (See above) but only one metro line and it is a rubber tyred system, underground in the city but mostly on viaducts.
The Transportation Museum here is a small place mainly aimed at children but it does have a tram to look at as well as umpteen models of trains, trams, ships and aircraft.
My final destination today was Hiroshima Castle.
That’s enough tourism for today. I headed for the Ginza Lion Beer Hall in Hiroshima station where I enjoyed a Yebisu Premium Black – a sweet Schwartzbier, then Sapporo’s Edelpils, and finally a half-and-half of Yebisu and Yebisu Black.
(I also enjoyed some deep fried oysters and a beef stew.)
More from Japan in Part Two